Kataweb. it - Blog - TUSITALA » Parole per farlo. The History of Beauty. Fragrance, eyeliner, toothpaste—the beauty business has permeated our lives like few other industries. But surprisingly little is known about its history, which over time has been shrouded in competitive secrecy. HBS history professor Geoffrey Jones offers one of the first authoritative accounts in Beauty Imagined: A History of the Global Beauty Industry. The global beauty business permeates our lives, influencing how we perceive ourselves and what it is to be beautiful. The brands and firms which have shaped this industry, such as Avon,Coty, Estée Lauder, L'Oréal, and Shiseido, have imagined beauty for us. This book provides the first authoritative history of the global beauty industry from its emergence in the nineteenth century to the present day, exploring how today's global giants grew. It shows how successive generations of entrepreneurs built brands which shaped perceptions of beauty, and the business organizations needed to market them. They democratized access to beauty products, once the privilege of elites, but they also defined the gender and ethnic borders of beauty, and its association with a handful of cities, notably Paris and later New York. The result was a homogenization of beauty ideals throughout the world. Today globalization is changing the beauty industry again; its impact can be seen in a range of competing strategies. Global brands have swept into China, Russia, and India, but at the same time, these brands are having to respond to a far greater diversity of cultures and lifestyles as new markets are opened up worldwide. In the twenty first century, beauty is again being re- imagined anew. http: //www. Beauty- Imagined- History- Global- Business/dp/0. Key concepts: · The emergence of the beauty industry was associated with an unprecedented homogenization of beauty ideals throughout the world. · Entrepreneurs combined a passion for the beauty industry with an ability to understand the societal values and artistic trends of their eras.· The industry is subject to sudden shifts in fashion and fads, which disrupt incumbent positions and provide opportunities for new entrants. Beauty Imagined: A History of the Global Beauty Industry is the first serious attempt to trace the history of the $3. France, the United States, Japan, and Brazil. What’s taken so long? Volai Sidney – Christchurch con Quantas per non so più quale scambio di favori tra Air New Zealand e Quantas. cutting red tape to speed creation of jobs. . BK Italia The industrial building dating from 1963 and typically covered by a shed roof, was subjected to preservation jobs. (35 w/h at top speed). Search our New Zealand movie database. Are We Officially Dating; Are We There Yet? Argentina; Argo;. Speed And Loss; Lovely Bones, The;. . water sound speed (1500 m/s) was assumed for the (inferred). With the method of surface exposure dating being developed such chronological goals can be achieved. Speed Dating MilanoWe, Gaiety Travels. and dives of the Speed Slide and the rush of the Toboggan Ride allon the Water Park. Christchurch. . essere completati solamente a Buenos Aires nella seconda metà di novembre 1996, con l'arrivo diretto da BTN (via Christchurch), della strumentazione ancora. According to author Geoffrey Jones, the Isidor Straus Professor of Business History at HBS, the fragmented, secretive, often family- owned businesses that have constituted the industry have been difficult for scholars to unlock. Couple this with the fact that most business historians are male, and you have a major industry that still has lots to reveal. We asked Jones to discuss his research and his new book. Sean Silverthorne: What inspired your interest in the beauty business and its history? Geoffrey Jones: My initial interest in the beauty industry was triggered by my earlier history of the consumer products giant Unilever, published some years ago. This company had a long- established business in soap and other toiletries, but spent decades after World War II striving without great success to expand its business into other categories of the beauty industry, such as skin care and perfume. As I researched this story, I realized both the huge size and the importance of this industry—and the remarkable paucity of authoritative literature about it. Or more precisely, while there are numerous books on various aspects of the beauty industry, from glossy coffee- table publications on cherished brands of perfume to feminist denunciations of the industry as demeaning to women, there were few studies that treated beauty seriously, as a business. So I saw both a challenge and an opportunity to research the story of how this industry grew from modest origins, making products that were often deemed an affront to public morality, to the $3. Q: Why has this industry been so neglected by business school faculty? A: I think there are two reasons. First of all, this is a difficult industry to research. Historically, it has been quite fragmented, with many small and often family- owned firms whose stories are hard to reconstruct. The industry as a whole is well known to be secretive—after all, its foundations rest heavily on mystique. And then there is the frequently observed gender bias in business school faculty. I suspect male faculty, who comprised the majority in most schools until quite recently, regarded this industry as a feminine domain and rather frivolous, and felt more comfortable writing about software or venture capital than lipstick and face powder. As female faculty built careers in business schools, they may also have been disinclined to conform to assumed gender stereotypes by working on beauty. The fashion industry, which is also huge, suffers from the same lack of attention from management researchers. Q: You write, “Beauty emerges as an industry which was easy to enter, but hard to succeed at.” How so? A: It does not take a great deal of capital nor technological expertise to launch an entrepreneurial venture in many beauty products—although for such a venture to have any hope of success, high levels of imagination and creativity have always been required. If you have a concept for a new brand, and the necessary finance, there are contract manufacturers and perfumers that will provide a product for you. This is also an industry subject to sudden shifts in fashion and fads, which disrupt incumbent positions and provide opportunities for new entrants. Brand loyalties are often weak, especially for “fun” products like lip and eye cosmetics, although less so for foundation, because it is more expensive and needs to be a good match with skin tone. Achieving sustainable success in the beauty industry is another matter. It is fiercely competitive, with thousands of product launches each year. Even the largest, most professionally managed global companies find it hard to predict the success of product launches, and can stumble badly. One estimate is that 9. Giochi Speed Dating 2Getting the word out to consumers, and getting product through the distribution channels to consumers, provide further major challenges for new ventures. Creative talent, astute marketing skills, and the ability to understand and respond rapidly to consumer fashions and preferences are all needed to succeed. There are fortunes to be made by building a successful new brand, but it takes an enormous amount of work and good luck to succeed. Q: You artfully portray a vivid, passionate cast of entrepreneurs. Which do you consider the most influential? Do you have favorites? A: The book emphasizes the role of individual entrepreneurs in building this industry. They varied enormously in their backgrounds and characters, but most shared a passion for the beauty industry, combined with an ability to understand the societal values and artistic trends of their eras, and to translate them into brands. François Coty stands out as a creative genius in the formative stages of the industry in the early 2. Born as Joseph Marie François Spoturno on the Mediterranean island of Corsica, which was also the birthplace of Napoleon, he was a complete outsider to the traditional Parisian perfume industry. He went on to transform it. Assuming an adapted version of his mother’s maiden name as he strove to create a brand that symbolized style and elegance, he got his first order by smashing a bottle of his perfume on the floor of a prominent Parisian department store, in a successful gambit to get customers to smell it. He created two entirely new classes of perfume, soft sweet floral and chypre, and was the first perfumer to sell his wares in elegantly designed glass bottles, rather than in the pharmaceutical bottles used previously. An ambitious believer in globalization, he even sent his energetic mother- in- law to open up the American market in 1. The American business proved so successful that its U. S. sales reached the equivalent in today’s terms of half a billion dollars by the end of the 1. Great Depression eviscerated what had become the world’s biggest beauty company. Coty was a larger than life character, but he was hardly alone in this industry in that respect. The cast of influential and colorful characters includes Madam C. J. Walker, the daughter of former slaves in Louisiana who developed a system for straightening African- American hair, which was so successful that she ranks as among the first American self- made female millionaires. And then there was the ever- feuding Helena Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden, who transformed beauty salons from places considered the moral equivalent of brothels to palaces of opulence and style. And in our own time, Luiz Seabra stands out as the founder of Brazil’s biggest beauty company, Natura, which is dedicated to environmental sustainability with a broad social vision. Q: How much does the industry influence our notions of beauty, and how much do accepted or popular notions of beauty influence product development? A: The human desire to attract reflects basic biological motivations. Every human society from at least the ancient Egyptians onwards has used beauty products and artifacts to enhance attractiveness. However, beauty ideals have always varied enormously over time and between societies. The book shows that as the modern industry emerged in the 1. Beauty became associated with Western countries, and white people, and with women. These assumptions reflected wider societal trends. Western societies as a whole underwent growing gender differences in clothing and work. And this was the age of Western imperialism. The industry’s contribution was to turn these underlying trends into brands, create aspirations that drove their growing use, and then employ modern marketing methods to globalize them. El blog Foro Antimasónico Español califica de “secta” a la masonería. El pasado día 1. 0 de abril empezó a publicarse en internet el blog Foro Antimasónico Español, iniciativa de quienes se califican a sí mismos como “un pequeño grupo de expertos en la materia”, devotos todos ellos de las tesis del historiador Ricardo de la Cierva, a quien califican como “propulsor de esta iniciativa antisectaria y antimasónica”. Los autores se identifican con distintos pseudónimos, entre ellos Jakin Boor, precisamente el mismo nombre con el que el dictador español Francisco Franco firmaba sus artículos antimasónicos en la prensa fascista de la época. El nuevo medio antimasónico asegura a sus lectores que “no se puede simplificar la realidad de la masonería considerándola como una mera asociación mundial, liberal y filantrópica. Esta secta, en todas sus ramificaciones, persigue fines que todavía siguen ocultos a mucha gente”. Hasta este momento, el blog contiene cinco artículos, reproduciendo materiales ajenos como una entrevista a Maurice Caillet - autor del libro. Yo fui masón- , así como una entrevista al ya mencionado Ricardo de la Cierva, donde asegura que el presidente del Gobierno español, José Luís Rodríguez Zapatero, pertenece a la masonería.
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